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Simply known as "The
Cedars", this resort settlement in Lebanon's highest
range is one of the most dramatically beautiful spots in the
country.
Its centerpiece is an ancient grove of cedars, a tree
synonymous for millennia with Lebanon itself.
Just below The Cedars is the town of Bsharre, birthplace of
Gibran Khalil Gibran.
The most exciting way to get to The Cedars
is from Deir al Ahmar in the Beqaa valley. The road snakes up
the bare eastern slopes of Mount Lebanon presenting marvelous
views at every turn. As you get higher, at the crest you look
down the other side into a gigantic bowl where the ski resort,
the cedar grove and the Qadisha gorge lie before you in a
wide-angle panorama. Plan this route for summer or fall
because snow closes the pass in winter. |
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A more direct way to The
Cedars is from Chekka (south of Tripoli) to Bsharre.
Two roads lead from Bsharre village to the cedars, about seven
kilometers up the mountain. The older road, known for its
hairpin curves, leads past the entrance path of the Qadisha
grotto. The new road, with more gentle engineering, is kept
clear in winter for painfree ascent. Whichever way you take,
the vistas are beautiful, especially when fog rises from the
valley. |
You first arrive at a large
assortment of hotels, chalets, night clubs and restaurants,
which thought not a village, does form a local community of
residents, visitors and local proprietors. About a kilometer
further on is the famous Cedar grove where the road is lined
with the inevitable souvenir stands and small restaurants. the
same road continues to the ski area at 2,066 meters and goes
over the mountain and down into the Beqaa valley.
The Cedars is a resort for all seasons. In
summer the high elevation makes it a wonderful escape from |
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Qadisha Gorge |
the
humid coast while in winter skiing is the favorite activity. |
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Bsharre
Cedar Grove
Cedars of
Jaj
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The
Cedars in History
As
remote as they are, the cedars are not untouched by
history. The grove we see today descends from an immense
primeval forest of cedars and other trees such as
cypress, pine and oak that once covered most of Mount
Lebanon including part of its east facing slopes.
The Cedar is an historical entity
mentioned often in the Bible and other ancient texts and
it played an important part in the culture, trade and
religious observances of the ancient Middle East.
Serious exploitation of these forests began in the third
millennium B.C., coastal towns such as Byblos.
Over the centuries, Assyrians,
Babylonians and Persians made expedition to Mount
Lebanon for timber or extracted tributes of wood from
the coastal cities of Canaan-Phoenicia. The Phoenicians
themselves made use of the cedar, especially for their
merchant fleets. Solomon requested large supplies of
cedar wood, along with architects and builders from King
Hiram of Tyre to build his temple. Nebuchadnezzar
boasted on a cuneiform, inscription: "I brought for
building, mighty cedars, which I cut down with my pure
hands on Mount Lebanon". Prized for its fragrance
and durability, the length of the great logs made cedar
wood especially desirable. Cedar was important for
shipbuilding and |
was
used for the roofs of the temples, to construct tombs
and other major buildings.
The Egyptians used cedar resin for mummification, and
pitch was extracted from these trees for waterproofing
and caulking.
In the second century A.D., the Roman
Emperor Hadrian attempted to protect the forest with
boundary markers, most carved into living rock, others
in the form of separate engraved stones. Today over 200
such markers have been recorded, allowing scholars to
make an approximate reconstruction of the ancient forest
boundaries. Two of these markers, carved in abbreviated
Latin, can be seen at the American University of Beirut
Museum. In the centuries after Hadrian, Lebanon's trees
were used extensively as fuel, especially for lime
burning kilns. In the Middle Ages mountain villagers
cleared forests for farmland, using the wood for fuel
and construction. The Ottomans in the 19th century
destroyed much of the forest cover and during World War
II British troops used the wood to build railroad
between Tripoli and Haifa. |
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The
Cedar Tree Itself
Of the immense forests of history
only isolated patches of cedars are found in Lebanon
today. Growing at high elevations, often in craggy
difficult-to-reach locations, these majestic trees still
stir the imagination.
In the north of the country, stands
of cedars grow in the Horsh Ehden Nature
Preserve. More inaccessible are the trees near Hadeth
al-Jubbeh, whose shape has been changed by trimming,
and the cedars near Tannourine.
In Jaj near Laqlouq isolated specimens of cedars
are still scattered on the rocky peaks above the town.
Deep in the Shouf district on top of Mount Barouk,
cedars some 350 years old grow in an enclosed grove.
These trees, which are in pristine condition, can be
easily admired from outside the protective wall. Above
the town of Maaser esh-Shouf, there is another
cedar forest, which has an extended view of the Beqaa
valley.
Cedar trees also grow in nearby Ain Zhalta. |
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The most famous
cedars, known as
Arz el Rab or Cedars of the Lord, are those of
Bsharre. Only in this grove, the oldest in Lebanon,
gives an accurate idea of the stature and magnificence
these trees attained in antiquity. About 375 cedars of
great age stand in a sheltered glacial pocket of Mount
Makmel.
Four of them, many hundreds of years old, have reached a
height of 35 meters and their trunks are between 12 and
14 meters around. They have straight trunks and strong
branches that spread their regular horizontal boughs
like fans. Also among the inhabitants of the forests are
some thousand young |
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The Cedar
at the entrance
of the Grove |
trees,
planted in recent decades to ensure the future of
this national resource. The slow-growing cedar, with its
long life span, requires at least 40 years before it can
even produce fertile seeds. Like any other treasure of
great antiquity, the Bsharre cedar grove requires
special care and protection. Concern for this modern
remnant of historic cedars goes back to 1876 when the
102-hectare grove was surrounded by a high stone wall.
Financed by Great Britain's Queen
Victoria, the wall protects against one of the cedar's
natural enemies, the goats who enjoy feasting on young
saplings.
More recently, a "Committee of the Friends of the
Cedar Forest", organized in 1985, is attempting to
deal with the damage and disease - brought by both man
and nature - that afflicts the trees. To improve the
general health and appearance of the forest, the
Committee has removed tons of dead wood and fertilized
the soil. Various pests and diseases are being treated
and lightning rods have been installed for further
protection. Three thousand meters of attractive pathways
have been built so visitors can enjoy the grove without
causing damage. |
Also due for
attention is a Maronite chapel in the center of the
forest. Built in 1843 when these cedars were under the
protection of the Patriarchate, the chapel is the scene
of a special annual celebration on the 6th of August. |
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The
Cedars forest may be visited daily except
Monday.
A moderate entrance fee is charged. Guides are
available for the pleasant walk through the
grove. |
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Skiing
in The Cedars
The
scenery and the quality of the snow make
The Cedars an exceptional skiing venue. The pistes form a
natural amphitheater, and the high elevation means the season
usually lasts from December through April.
A French army ski school opened here in the
1930's and the handsome building, which now belongs to the
Lebanese army, can still be seen near the cedar grove. The
chair lift, installed in 1953, is no longer in use but the
main runs are equipped with five T-bar lifts. There are also
four baby slopes with lifts. Ski rentals are available from
local shops, which also arrange ski lessons with qualified
instructors. Snack bars, hotels and restaurants service the
ski area. More facilities are available at The Cedars
"village" and in Bsharre, 15 minutes down the
mountain. |
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The Cedars Ski
Resort |
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In The Cedars
Area
The
Cedars resort is set in an area of unusual natural and
historical interest. In only 30 minutes you can drive from the
crest of the mountain which soars nearly 3,000 meters above
the resort, down to the bottom of the steep-sided Qadisha
gorge at less than 1,000 meters. Within this area are
rivers, springs, waterfalls, caves and other natural
formations as well as rock-cut churches, monasteries and
interesting villages to visit. There is always the promise of
a friendly welcome from the hospitable people who live there. |
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For
details on how to visit
the monasteries and cave churches of Qadisha,
see the Ministry of Tourism's brochure, "One Day in
Lebanon: Qadisha". |
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If
you have time
An
interesting tour can be made of the villages around the
horseshoe-shaped rim of the Qadisha valley. if you are
driving to The Cedars via the village of Qnat,
the first village you come to on the south side of the
gorge is Hadeth al-Jubbeh, a town which goes back
to at least the early 6th century A.D. A stop here is
recommended for the wonderful view of Qadisha.
Next comes Diman, the summer
residence of the Maronite Patriarch since the 19th
century. The sites overlooks the Monastery of Qannoubin,
an early seat of the Patriarchy. From Diman a steep path
takes you down to the gorge. |
The
Gibran Museum |
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Not
far from Diman is Hasroun, a red-roofed town that
hugs the edge of the Qadisha valley. This village is
known for its picturesque dwellings, old churches and
gardens.
A pleasant pathway descends from here past several
ancient churches into Qadisha valley. Bqaa Kafra,
reached via a turnoff from Bqorqacha, is the
highest village in the country at 1,600 meters.
This picturesque town is also the birthplace of
Lebanon's Saint Charbel, born in 1828.
At the head of the gorge is Bsharre
the hometown of Gibran Khalil Gibran.
The
Gibran Museum in the monastery of Mar Sarkis is
open in winter from 9 am to 5 pm daily, except
Monday, and everyday in summer. |
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Leaving Bsharre you go
around the horseshoe to Hadchit, dramatically perched
on a ledge over the gorge. If you get off the main road and
into the older part of town you'll find traditional houses and
streets, the typical town square and some old churches. |
A path
starting from the lower town level, goes to bottom of the
valley. Anyone looking for souvenirs of cedar wood would do
well to stop at the workshops of Blawza before heading
up to The Cedars resort. This small town not far from Hadchit,
is also the starting point for walks to Diman or the Qannoubin
Monastery in the valley.
On the old
road between The Cedars and Bsharre a long path on the side of
the cliff leads to the small Qadisha Grotto. Below the
cave gushes out a powerful waterfall, especially full in the
spring months. It is possible to visit the limestone
formations. |
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Qadisha Grotto |
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The
Cedars of Barouk |
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Climb
Lebanon's Highest Peak
You
can ascend the 3088-meter high
Qornet es-Sawda (or Black Horn), by foot or take
advantage of a rough track suitable for four-wheel drive
vehicles.
Allow a whole day if you want to make
the entire ascent and return by foot. The initial climb,
following the path of the chair lift, takes you about
two hours and brings you to a small hut at the end of
the lift. From here you hike north along the top for
another hour. Look for patches of last's winter snow and
porcupine quills along the way. |
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An
easier way to the top is to take a road suitable for
four-wheel drive vehicles that starts at Dahr el-Qadib on the
highest point on the road between the Cedars and Yammouneh in
the Beqaa. From the summit, which is marked by a large
metallic tripod, you have a panoramic view of the coast of
Lebanon towards the west. It is said that on a clear day the
island of Cyprus can be seen.
Unusual Dining
From
the Cedars, a summer excursion takes you east over the
mountain towards the Beqaa valley to Ouyoun Orghoch.
Here tented restaurants cluster around a large spring fed
wetland where trout are farmed. Cold waters keep drinks
chilled on the warmest days. In the spring an dearly summer
expect to be presented with snow instead of ice for your
arak.
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